I opted for a main course of lasagna, which is rather spicy at G. Michael's, standing up well to the kinds of big and powerful red wines that I like most of all. The Renwood 2002 Old Vine Zinfandel is just such a wine: complex, pleasing, and full of the kind of character that one expects to find in a bottle labeled “Old Vine.” It comes from some of Amador County's oldest vineyards, sites that are now low-yield and that average at least fifty years in age.

The wine began promising, showing its deep ruby color as it was poured. Almost immediately after pleasing the eyes, it pleased the nose with its intense bouquet of dark berries with accents that include eucalyptus and sage. It continued to please as it was drunk, with the berries starting the tasting sensation and melting away to finish with tannins that vintner describes as “sweet” and “fleshy.”

I am far from the only fan of this wine; it has won numerous awards, including the Gold Medal at the 2005 Los Angeles County Fair Wines of the World Competition and Silver Medals at the 2005 Riverside International Wine Competition, 2005 Easter International Wine Competition, 2005 Tasters Guild International Wine Competition, 2005 San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition, 2005 Hilton Head Wine Festival, 2005 Dallas Morning News Wine Competition, and 2005 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition.

With a suggested retail price of $20, it's a luxury that can be had and should be enjoyed with good company and good food.