As 2004 began to wind down, I started to notice some activity along a part of Gay Street that had been previously quiet. Bit by bit, the pieces came together and on December 31, 2004, Due Amici opened for business. In mid-March, I finally had the chance to try the place myself.

Niki and I wandered in without a reservation for an early lunch on a recent Friday, about 11:30 A.M. Much to our surprise, we found that the place was completely booked and we could not get a table. We were offered seats at the bar, however, and as the restaurant is a non-smoking establishment, we were happy to take our seats there.

The bar is black, the barstools are black with white seats. In an interesting touch, there is tile -- clear glass tile, in fact -- along critical edges. High ceilings with exposed wooden joists, painted completely black, make for the underside of the second floor while supporting can lighting and exposed duct work for the restaurant. The interior walls are exposed brick, with tracks strategically placed to allow curtains to be drawn to provide semiprivate dining to parties given careful placement. The combination of these elements works well, giving both a sense of history in the site and a feel of chic modernity.

Options for pasta dishes are wonderful: choose your own pasta and then a sauce to go with it. I opted for ravioli (there are many available; I picked the six-cheese variety) and a tomato-based sauce (traditional meat sauce). I picked a wine off the menu by the glass, La Prendina Il Falcone Cabernet Sauvignon, one that the bartender proclaimed one of her favorites by the glass. The food was excellent.

As no one was waiting around for a seat and I had time before my next meeting, I stayed for dessert. Although I wanted an espresso, I had to settle for coffee (the espresso machine has yet to arrive). "Settling" for coffee, in this case, is probably a bit harsh: it was an excellent cup, roasted right across the street at another local favorite of mine, Café Brioso (where we also get our coffee for the office). As for the dessert itself, I chose canoli. Two came on the plate -- one covered in chocolate.

Due Amici has the right message and delivers the right experience to back it up.